Friday, February 24, 2017

LOST




I am sitting atop Tikal Temple Four, meditating and taking notes. 

You can see Temples One and Two above the vegetation in the distance, with howler monkeys shrieking at such frightening volume one expects aliens to attack.

I have no service here, no Internet. If you are reading this, it is because someone -- preferably myself, having survived -- has transcribed the notes and perhaps even uploaded the pictures. For the moment, I cannot.

People come to Tikal to read, apparently. The picture I have of Lee at Tikal, adorning the refrigerator in my home some thousands of miles away, is of her sitting on one of these temples amid the acres and acres of them, reading.  

I read segments of the Tao Te Ching today sitting here. Elsewhere, tourists are reading their books, novels, travel guides, sitting on temples. I have no theory of why this should be. 

The ghosts of Mayan princes compel us to read, perhaps. 

I can see the ghosts of Mayan children running amid the temples, playing hide and seek, or ball, thinking of self-sacrifice in their futures.

Years ago, at Uxmal in the Yucatan, I practiced Tai Chi in an isolated corner of the ruins, where abides the garden of fertility, stele of erect penises.  Mayans pierced their genitals, not unlike these international hoards of youth who take buses hourly to Tikal today. I overhear them talking of their years of practiced aimlessness, tattoos punctuating various loci, piercings with historical precedent.

There are too many tourists. It is hard to get lost in the jungle with a myriad of languages and banal concerns offering constant distraction. I am sitting meditating on the top of Temple Four when a water bottle cap lands on my head. Others are looking at their watches, calculating how many minutes are left before they must return to their buses.

But, getting lost is still possible in this vast acreage of history and blood and ruin and jungle. One wrong turn on the path and you are alone amid the vines and ceiba trees and wasp nests and pixote creatures wandering fearlessly along. And the howler and spider monkeys overhead, perhaps a jaguar.

There are road signs warning of snakes crossing.

Tomorrow, getting lost is in the cards. If the guide wasn't stealing my money, we will be trekking deep into the jungle with mules for five days. No Internet there.

It isn't easy getting lost. There is a feeling one has when the airplane lifts off or when the lights go off on an overnight bus trip, a wonderful sense of solitude and thrill, the loss of control, giving one's self over to the universe for a brief time.

Tomorrow could be something like that.

Being alone is also something hard to accomplish. With social media and international dating apps, my first 24 hours in Guatemala City was a whirlwind of connection, stories for another time. 

I know things are happening in the United States, horrible and cruel and senseless things. I am not there. 

As Jim Morrison said, everything must be this way. 

Pictures to come. 



Saturday, February 18, 2017

PILGRIMAGE TO TIKAL



+++
SOME RUN GUNS.

Not everything is vicarious in my new life as an adventurer,
But what is imagined is better, best,
Beats living it out on most counts,

Like Domingo at the top of the John Hancock Building,
After crossing the desert alone at 16 to come to America,
He wants only to take pictures to post to Facebook,

The experience itself is moot, something that barely registers,
But the cityscape below, the lake, gaining the likes of friends
Is What Matters.

I want to be invited to parties. I do not want to attend parties.

I want to be desired like anyone
Sometimes it is necessary
The motions of sex like a puto
Basking in the glory 
Dulled to the experience

Guatemala lies ahead, the lost city of El Mirador,
To hike through the jungle with mules, mud, and mosquitos,
In training for Choquequirao
To skip the party at Machu Picchu
The credo is No Tourists! except for me.

Go directly to Tikal. Do not pass Go. Do not collect 200 Quetzales.
But first, I need a new tattoo. 
The God of Love gets a new tattoo.

My wife went missing last year. 
Actually, she died. 
What song was it, We don't know who we are any more? 
Who sang that?

I walk the leftover dog and try to remember.

I'll be packing. And collecting the rents.
Someone is coming over at seven tonight. 
He wants a massage, ostensibly.

I was once criticized for using the word ostensibly.
I was working for the census. In the office.
What? I said. You can't say the word ostensibly any more?

We do things out of grief. 
We sleep with strangers or starve ourselves,
Slowly it becomes clear, 

A long settled cenote,
A Polaroid finished since the age of dinosaurs,
Blue and blue and deep, 
Fathomless pain wandering foreign lands
With a magnifying glass, 
Seeking what will never return
And I will always live alone
Until my last ten days of life.

There is money to explain
About the way the rich buy underground bunkers 
Forged from former nuclear missile launch sites
for the end of the world
so they can continue to harbor the illusion that they will live 

ten more days 
than anyone else.

Their job is hard, finding ways to spend
Instead of ways to make.
I do not envy them

I am one of them
Yachts to rowboats

On my last day in Mexico City,
The peso jumped while I was texting 
Sentimental nothings to the prostitute

the scort, he calls himself

How much today, I asked.

"Five hundred pesos," he said.
It was 850 the day before. 
We still have never met.
We actually seemed to like each other.
I can't remember his name. 

Maybe some day I will be generous
But not while chemicals enable me
And no prescription necessary in Mexico

Now I remember. It was Hedwig who sang 
How the Germans lost their identity
Who forgot who they were
After the war 

We don't know who we are anymore
And that marks, appropriately,
this Centenary of Dada

+++
ENLIGHTENING THE SAINT.

I am charging my phone in the restaurant
Chicken broth with carrots and squash
The lime kicks it over, makes it

I am taking notes while eating this 60 peso 
Three course lunch
One block from Bellas Artes

Neruda would have noticed 
the thumbs of the subway riders
Their hair standing up black and shining
Ginsberg would have seen political machinations
And joined the march taking place in the streets
Even as we eat

I will inhabit their ghosts here and throughout Latin America
In my quest for more ghosts

Carrying Lee's ghost with me
And when I die 

I will disperse the ghosts of all of us 
Into the wind passing by all ruins, until the last pyramid crumbles

Into the jungle I am about to enter with a mule
Next week God willing and the moon don't crash.

In the Frida Kahlo house, 
a father is explaining art to his young son

The names of Frida and Diego
Spelled out on the kitchen wall
In tiny coffee cups

Her supplies and easel are as she left them
Diego had a cubist period

Drinking chocolate at El Jaroche 
Eating pozole in the Zona Rosa

Valentine's Day 
In Immigration Court 
with Guatemaltecos

The judge signs deportation papers
"Things aren't the same as they used to be," she sighs

I am here or there
My borders blur

This is not a leap year
But just the same I will celebrate our anniversary
Trekking to the pinnacle of Tikal

Where Lee once read poetry
Before the tourists arrived

The jaguars and I will howl
The phantom Mayan martyrs
Cradling Lee's ghost in my arms
Smuggling her ashes and feeding them to howler monkeys

"I don't know who I am anymore," I told the escort
Who has yet to escort me anywhere.

The therapist, twirling his pen over paper,
Legs crossed, pursing his lips, listening,
speaks, a rarity

"Find a new word for what you are now."

Maybe you are no longer a writer, he said.

Or maybe I suggested it.

You need a new word
For crossing international borders,
Traipsing through the jungle in search of the unexcavated worlds,
For letting homeless sex offenders squat in your house,
For driving undocumented Guatemalan workers to their court dates
Hundreds of miles for free
For loaning your truck and lifting their beds
For crawling through dumpsters to salvage good furniture
For giving free massages and happy endings
For never saying no
For trying to fix everything

Boy scout? The pun distracts.
Invisiblist?
Uber Gratis?
Saint?

Ginsberg wanted to be a saint
Addicted to Time Magazine

I never felt comfortable calling myself a writer
How different could it be to call myself a saint
Bodhisattva in training

Look back again with gratitude and joy
Look down into the jungle from the pyramid above
Discover the footpaths beneath mystery vegetation
To the uncharted branches 
of the Energy


+++
GRIEF

When the Christmas choir is weak and out of tune 
And the congregation praises it regardless

Grief doesn't sing along or follow the notes
Grief stands there unsure if he is holding the right hymnal

There is always too much food after cooking now
Whisky has no effect at all, like liquid lead 

Grief walks through the house naked at any hour
Grief doesn't know he's alone

Grief starts to take a walk
And turns back
Having forgotten to empty the emptiness


+++
THE TEMPORARY NATURE

how sweet falling over the mountain
tasting the wild strawberries
along the way

before i can arrive in guatemala
i have to cherish this last winter walk
how i will miss it

before i return to the cold prairie
i will have to relish the jungle growl
how i will miss it

Thursday, February 2, 2017

METRO IN MEXICO


smashed brown skin mosh pit 
an orgy defrayed for transport
and clothes

counting stops
i stare at that finger
imagine swirling my tongue
sucking it

jostling unison pogos
with eyes seeking global positioning 

we defer to the short woman 
shouting to sell noise whistles

that soul under his headphones
bought for the brand, to cancel thought
he listens to a music
i could not bear

drown out the sad 
echo, deftly burnished 
through forty years 
hoeing the mantra

in cornfields of the maya
in cornfields of midwest

more brown fingers clutching silver poles
thumbs like toes to chew

the stations glide past
our huddle of warmth

desire under the turnstiles

the metro pendulum

station to station

the terminal love

2/2/17